Chainmale
Member
Picked up a 2101xp to add to my lineup today....
2101xp
- Thread starter Chainmale
- Start date
Clean looking saw for the vintage- usually missing a lot more paint from the rear handle especially. Decals still on top cover- doubt its seen a whole lot of hard work.
Chainmale
Member
He's owned it since new. He said it has cut alot of big Macro. Has been a firewood saw it's whole life
Sweet, hopefully it was run tuned right and oil rich- incidentally, Husqvarna recommend on anything over 80cc- 33:1.
Chainmale
Member
Whipped the muffler off and it's had plenty of oil, but unfortunately some scoring on piston. Intake side of cylinder looks ok. I'll lift the jug when I get some time.
Chainmale
Member
Does anybody know if the spring for the operator presence lever is shared by any other models?
Not 100% but probably common to 480's and the like.
Id be looking at the bottom rod bearing pretty close- make sure bits of cage are not doing your scoring. Seals are a matter of course- replace those and main crank bearings if at all suspect.
I keep the governors working on these- I know the fashion seems to be block them and squeeze a wee bit more out of it, but they do a job- were put there for a reason and can override a little of the idiot factor.
Chainmale
Member
Yea. It's worth giving it a good going over. Hoping exhaust side of cylinders ok. I find the governor makes it a bit harder to tune by ear, but it's fine in the cut. Never got around to plugging it.
Chainmale
Member
Was hoping that may be the case, I've got a 280 carcus laying around, I'll have a look
Chainmale
Member
Shes not pretty. Gave it a quick clean up, still a wee bit of transfer below the intake I need to remove. A bit on the fence whether I clean it up a bit more and do piston and seals. Or if I get a Dukes cylinder for it.
Chainmale
Member
I think he'd used a screwdriver or something to chock the piston at some point. Notice the exhaust roof and piston. Should be able to reshape and chamfer the port a bit. On the upside the bottom end is clean and feels great.
Yeah, perhaps less than ideal.
Clean it up best ya can and hopefully that one dark line that looks to be a deep groove is not through the chrome.
Piston looks like it might have had the old screwdriver through the exhaust port as a piston stop trick.
New set of good rings- do the grooves with a jewellers file so the rings do not catch on the lips and it will run I guess- not ideal, may start peeling lining- but that might be next tank or ten years away.
Give the bottom rod bearing a REAL good looking at- I know a guy paid big money for a secondhand cylinder for a 2100- slapped it on and another bit of cage that took the original out came loose- or the first broken bit was still in the crankcase and ate the replacement pretty bad.
So he then got a Dukes kit and bought it here- all up for what it cost ( including good 2ndhand crank) he could have got a good 2ndhand 3120.
Remember the shipping cost, the exchange rate and possible GST implications to get a Dukes topend here- suddenly the cheap 2101 is not so cheap no more. Granted- about the only sensible option- but you know what I mean.
If it was an all day every day money making saw- you could justify spending big on it- but its not going to be is it- so probably you could make what you have run and be happy for a bit.
Clean it up best ya can and hopefully that one dark line that looks to be a deep groove is not through the chrome.
Piston looks like it might have had the old screwdriver through the exhaust port as a piston stop trick.
New set of good rings- do the grooves with a jewellers file so the rings do not catch on the lips and it will run I guess- not ideal, may start peeling lining- but that might be next tank or ten years away.
Give the bottom rod bearing a REAL good looking at- I know a guy paid big money for a secondhand cylinder for a 2100- slapped it on and another bit of cage that took the original out came loose- or the first broken bit was still in the crankcase and ate the replacement pretty bad.
So he then got a Dukes kit and bought it here- all up for what it cost ( including good 2ndhand crank) he could have got a good 2ndhand 3120.
Remember the shipping cost, the exchange rate and possible GST implications to get a Dukes topend here- suddenly the cheap 2101 is not so cheap no more. Granted- about the only sensible option- but you know what I mean.
If it was an all day every day money making saw- you could justify spending big on it- but its not going to be is it- so probably you could make what you have run and be happy for a bit.
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Chainmale
Member
Yea, my thoughts exactly. It's just shy of $300 delivered for Dukes kit. There's no play in the rod at all, but I'll have a closer inspection. It's hard to see in there between the lobes.
The gouging doesn't appear to have gone through the plating. For the most part I can't feel it with my finger now. Hopefully it's looking a bit better once I've got it to the point that the transfers gone
The gouging doesn't appear to have gone through the plating. For the most part I can't feel it with my finger now. Hopefully it's looking a bit better once I've got it to the point that the transfers gone
Would have been good to pressure and vacuum test before you tore it all down- just to be sure.
Chainmale
Member
Generally do. But I'm doing the seals anyway so will be pressure/vac testing after that.
I did take the clutch off while the cylinder was still on though, that always makes things easier
I did take the clutch off while the cylinder was still on though, that always makes things easier