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I will take that bet- I am willing to bet where I live and in my dollars- there is no way in hell I can land an 090 muffler at my door for $20- from any Asian supplier. The louvre muffler on it will do just fine- still has a spark arrestor screen fitted and the carb still has a governor...

Welcome.

Not familiar with the 3.7 model, but played with a couple of 610's in my time. Zama C2 is correct for the carb and by my reckoning- repair kit- RB15.

Not locked- and yes you do, of the top of my head I am not sure how many- 5-10 posts before you are allowed the privilege of posting photos (if this is what you are meaning?) Just proves you are serious and not a robot.

Welcome. In this day and age, 57 is not old- but just goes to show- never too late to learn.

Anyone having saw "issues" at the moment, or suffering away with a small box store consumer saw- ENTER THIS promotion- very good saw and what is to loose? Be very cool if a member here won it- just has to live in the States, be an adult and does not need to make a purchase to qualify- my kind...

Probably a WT-194 carb and used a K-20 kit from memory.

Which carb is in your 024 now? Kit should be easily enough found- but a lot of people swear by a bath in an ultrasonic cleaner. We do not have E fuel here, so do not suffer many of the associated problems that seem to plague saw fuel systems in R fuel countries. I guess it depends on the rest...

Oh I agree- its odd and I do not deal with a lot of 4## saws- but this is the second one in fairly quick succession that died in similar circumstances. Thats why I asked if anyone else had seen similar and if it was a "common thing" for these.

With the clutch cover removed- you will find these two screws (or similar) that hold the back of the wrap handle in place. Opening the gas cap and looking inside- you should see two raised and rib connected nipples- one close to and part off the tank wall- the lower one bridged and out on its...

Well first you have to find out exactly what is leaking where. Then decide what needs or can be fixed and what needs replaced. The entire plastic tank/handle and tail drop out of the main case of the saw once all the rubber anti vibe mounts are disconnected and the fuel line pulled from the...

Then yes, the tank is part of that assembly- rear handle/trigger control group/ front tank tail. Have you ever seen an IPL? = Illustrated parts list? Exploded diagrams of saws with part numbers for each. Very handy to explain things visually as to what goes where.

We are talking one of these? Tank is independent of the crankcase. If you are 100% sure the tank is not leaking from around the filler cap or the vent built into the filler cap- then my best guess is one of the bolt/screws that hold the wrap handle tail to the tank side has been replaced...

Yes, the tap provided in the helicoil spring type thread "repair" cuts 16mm threads- the insert takes up the difference between 16mm and spark plug 14mm X 1.25. I believe keysert do "fat" wall inserts, but do not do one (I could find locally) that is both short and 14 X 1.25 internal. So in...

Oh, yep- okay.

Then where does the watered down carbon go?

Well if you removed all that stuff and no change- what are the odds of starter pulley damage being the cause of your issues? If you take the starter off the saw does the rope pull nice, smooth and easy?

Was in pretty good original condition- still has all the washers under the heads of the bolts on the cylinder and starter cover- they usually go missing early. I found an oversized thread repair insert for the cylinder- will be interesting to see how well it lasts. I am assuming as the damaged...

It lives again.