Just my luck to pick an argument with a bloody theorist!
It is not much to do with size shape nor strength of magnets within any given flywheel, its diameter or replication of another- it is all to do with those magnets and their clock position relevant to the key or keyway within the bore of the wheel.
A few degrees either side of the ideal and you will have issues, issues that can destroy pistons, or cause a saw that is sparking beautifully outside the combustion chamber not to run because it is firing at an incorrect timing.
All you need to do is lap the (original) flywheel to the shaft, position it correctly and torque the nut down (if you didnt booger the threads on either nut or crank stub taking it off originally). No loctite is required.
It is not much to do with size shape nor strength of magnets within any given flywheel, its diameter or replication of another- it is all to do with those magnets and their clock position relevant to the key or keyway within the bore of the wheel.
A few degrees either side of the ideal and you will have issues, issues that can destroy pistons, or cause a saw that is sparking beautifully outside the combustion chamber not to run because it is firing at an incorrect timing.
All you need to do is lap the (original) flywheel to the shaft, position it correctly and torque the nut down (if you didnt booger the threads on either nut or crank stub taking it off originally). No loctite is required.