stiehl ms 250. new seals, rings and red caulk on cylinder base. runs like a beast, but can't get it to idle. note: fuel burped on fuel line when taking off carb (good crankcase pressure). carb cleaned and tried a new carb. no change. did notice slight hesitation/dogged from low to high rpm.
won't idle.
- Thread starter marty
- Start date
Did you give the cylinder liquid gasket at least 24 hours to cure before trying to start the engine?
Amazon no name carb?
My sequence would have been pressure and vacuum test after liquid gasket seal to confirm air tight, clean and kit original Stihl carb (no ethanol fuel here) pressure test the fuel line and carb. Use base settings on H&L- fine tune by ear from there.
BUT- if you are dealing with an aftermarket carbs- some of those do not start to run near right until 2-3 turns out on the L in particular.
Amazon no name carb?
My sequence would have been pressure and vacuum test after liquid gasket seal to confirm air tight, clean and kit original Stihl carb (no ethanol fuel here) pressure test the fuel line and carb. Use base settings on H&L- fine tune by ear from there.
BUT- if you are dealing with an aftermarket carbs- some of those do not start to run near right until 2-3 turns out on the L in particular.
never ethanol. had gas pressure on hose. that should eliminate the seals and gaskets. 48 hours on start. the carb was never an issue before. not a steil carb. did have issues replacing/find original crank keyway. will recheck keyway position. won't start without ether.
If you have to use ether- you have major problems still.
Gas pressure on the hose confirms nothing about the lower crankcase integrity.
Missing key is only an issue if the flywheel was not correctly aligned and the fit on the taper was not sufficient to hold it there- all that key does is locate the correct timing, it has nothing to do with holding the flywheel in position after that- it is the taper and the correct amount of force sending the nut home that holds the flywheel in place.
Gas pressure on the hose confirms nothing about the lower crankcase integrity.
Missing key is only an issue if the flywheel was not correctly aligned and the fit on the taper was not sufficient to hold it there- all that key does is locate the correct timing, it has nothing to do with holding the flywheel in position after that- it is the taper and the correct amount of force sending the nut home that holds the flywheel in place.