Titan Chainsaw won't pull

[Shaffick]

Hi all,

I have a Titan TTL759CHN chainsaw. For some strange reason my chainsaw won't pull when I pull the chord. It's as if the engine has seized up.

When I remove the pull chord assembly, I've noticed that the flywheel is stuck. I can free it up by using a socket. Once this has freed up it will turn over by hand and won't seize up. When I refit the pull chord assembly and attempt to pull, after 3-4 pulls it seizes up again. There is nothing wrong with the pull chord assembly as once its removed it'll pull nice and freely.

My question is why does the flywheel seize up only for it to free up with a socket applied and seize up again?.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

First random guess- as I am not very familiar with Titan saws- it a totally flogged out crank bearing, probably with a broken race and the individual balls are free floating enough to bind up the rotation.
Failing that, starter pawls mashed up, starter pulley busted, flywheel cup flogged out.
If none of those, busted chain brake band or damaged clutch bell needle bearing binding it up on the other side of the saw.
The crank travels through the saw- flywheel on one side- clutch on the other, all must rotate in a perfect line one side to the other- something somewhere is interfering with this perfect rotation.
Oil pump drive is another possible cause- as is a case screw backing out and fouling the flywheel on the interior face.
What happens if you pull the spark plug our- does it rotate any freer?

 

[Shaffick]

First random guess- as I am not very familiar with Titan saws- it a totally flogged out crank bearing, probably with a broken race and the individual balls are free floating enough to bind up the rotation.
Failing that, starter pawls mashed up, starter pulley busted, flywheel cup flogged out.
If none of those, busted chain brake band or damaged clutch bell needle bearing binding it up on the other side of the saw.
The crank travels through the saw- flywheel on one side- clutch on the other, all must rotate in a perfect line one side to the other- something somewhere is interfering with this perfect rotation.
Oil pump drive is another possible cause- as is a case screw backing out and fouling the flywheel on the interior face.
What happens if you pull the spark plug our- does it rotate any freer?

Hi there,
Sorry for my late reply. The flywheel will seize up with or without the spark plug fitted. I'm drawn to the fact that its a bearing issue. I think that when I refit the pull assembly it straightens the the crank bearings and cause it to bind on. With the pull assembly removed and the flywheel freed off again, I think that there is some play which doesn't cause the flywheel to seize up when rotating it by hand.
Thanks for you good advice.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Take the recoil starter off and try to flex the flywheel.
Any lateral movement would confirm bearing play- or the fact the flywheel is moving on the crank stub because of a loose retaining nut and/or sheared key.
If it is bearing play- it is really an uneconomic repair versus the cost of a new Titan type saw.

 

[Shaffick]

Take the recoil starter off and try to flex the flywheel.
Any lateral movement would confirm bearing play- or the fact the flywheel is moving on the crank stub because of a loose retaining nut and/or sheared key.
If it is bearing play- it is really an uneconomic repair versus the cost of a new Titan type saw.

Cheers Bob.
It's definitely a bearing fault. Not worth repairing. Thanks