So I am hoping someone can help me here - I recently got a used Remington Outlaw RM4620 20" saw and basically the problem is it will not stay running. It starts easily but then cuts out after a few seconds. If I give it gas, it will run a little longer but eventually it cuts out maybe after 20 or so seconds even with full throttle. So far I have: Replaced the fuel filter and fuel line that runs from it into the carb, drained the fuel tank and replaced it with fresh gas, replaced the air filter, cleaned out the spark arrester, and cleaned out the bar oil channel (so that is working fine at least). Still it is happening. I even can remove the air filter and it happens. Choke and intake seem to work and look clean. Spark plug looks OK. It sounds to me like a fuel delivery problem. Any ideas? Do I have to take the carb out, clean or rebuild it? Could it be the mixture or idle speed? When it start, it appears to idle briefly at a reasonable rate. It was not expensive and I would rather not put much money in it. Thanks
Saw starts right up but then cuts out
- Thread starter Chintzel
- Start date
Well the piston looked scored to hell and the ring is cracked. There’s the problem! I wonder if it was run with 50:1 fuel instead of the specified 40:1? I was doing some quick searching though. Not an easy or cost effective piston and ring/s to find on line. Even for the project factor, probably not worth investing in.
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Ring is cracked? Where? I must have missed that.
What you show is pretty normal for the early to mid stages of a lean burn out of the top end.
Like I have said previously, might be from an air leak, a very lean state of tune or straight gas.
For this model saw- unfortunately, you might be right- not worth putting the effort in to.
But, if you keep an eye out you might find another or a clone of it (a lot of the box store saws are the same with a different colour and different stickers) where something else has broken and will be a cheap parts donor.
Unfortunately, a lot of this style of saw go to those not familiar with mixed fuel machines and they get straight gassed- so good saws still apart from burned up pistons and scored cylinders!
What you show is pretty normal for the early to mid stages of a lean burn out of the top end.
Like I have said previously, might be from an air leak, a very lean state of tune or straight gas.
For this model saw- unfortunately, you might be right- not worth putting the effort in to.
But, if you keep an eye out you might find another or a clone of it (a lot of the box store saws are the same with a different colour and different stickers) where something else has broken and will be a cheap parts donor.
Unfortunately, a lot of this style of saw go to those not familiar with mixed fuel machines and they get straight gassed- so good saws still apart from burned up pistons and scored cylinders!
The second picture closeup. It really looks like a broken ring. I could almost pull it off by hand. And yeah, I might just try to reuse from it what I can. Or maybe put it up on FB marketplace for parts. Thanks for you input! Looks like I will just go get a new saw for the job I need to do.
Oh okay- chainsaw rings are like that- they have a small gap and locator pin in the piston- note the scallop in each end to accommodate the locating pin? They need to be split there to allow for thermal expansion as the rings heat up and get bigger as the engine runs and warms up.
You can and indeed so remove them by hand- CAREFULLY- try it on this one, perfect learning example- no great loss if you break a ring and they do break easily if over stretched/stressed. You just walk one end out with a pick or similar and ease it up and over the crown of the piston.
What you might find is one of those grooves has damaged the piston face at the groove and is trapping the ring- if caught- the ring will likely snap so see if they move within the groove before trying to remove them.