I have what I consider a strange (at least to me) problem. I bought a refurbished 435. It has been difficult to pull the starter since new. I consider myself to be a strong man, but this little saw kicks my butt. If I remove the spark plug it turns over like it should, so I'm guessing there is nothing wrong with the drive shaft or clutch. I haven't pulled the exhaust yet, but I can't imagine that is the problem. Any ideas?
Well- it could be any one of a number of things.
But lets start with who refurbished it and why?
What did the refurb entail- what parts were replaced and what were they replaced with?
The 435 is no monster to start- but there are things that can make it more difficult.
But lets start with who refurbished it and why?
What did the refurb entail- what parts were replaced and what were they replaced with?
The 435 is no monster to start- but there are things that can make it more difficult.
This one is definitely not your normal pull start. It starts and runs but if I have to pull it more than 10 times a day I'm done for the week. It totally feels like it is related to the compression. I bought this off from eBay. I have no idea what was done to it before I got it. After checking the exhaust port, I plan to pull the cylinder and check the piston.
Ah, so unknown history and unknown parts replacement.
Timing off a few degrees.
Flooding/ Hydro locking.
Excessive carbon build up.
Binding or damaged starter pulley.
Damaged/broken clutch components.
Any of the above can interfere with clean starting.
As you remove items off the saw- retest to see if the rotation movement has improved.
Timing off a few degrees.
Flooding/ Hydro locking.
Excessive carbon build up.
Binding or damaged starter pulley.
Damaged/broken clutch components.
Any of the above can interfere with clean starting.
As you remove items off the saw- retest to see if the rotation movement has improved.
thanks, that really helps. I guess I was headed in that direction... I plan to pull the carburetor and test. Would that be a good test for hydro lock? Without the spark plug the pull start is smooth so I was thinking that eliminated problems with the starter pulley and and clutch components.
Just clean and check each component as it cones off in regards to the starter- once cleaned and after being handled and looked at for a while, sometimes something jumps out at you as not quite right.
Hydro locking is where the crankcase becomes full of fluid through repeated rope pulls and failed starts.
With the spark plug out, turn the saw upside down and pull the rope a few times- any excess fuel mix should drain out the sparkplug hole.
But it could be simple flooding from an incorrectly set or assembled carb- making the pug try to spark underwater so to speak rather than ignite a volatile vapour mix. When you have trouble starting and take the plug out- is it really wet? Will a mist of fluid exit the chamber when the plug is out, saw right side up and rope pulled?
Hydro locking is where the crankcase becomes full of fluid through repeated rope pulls and failed starts.
With the spark plug out, turn the saw upside down and pull the rope a few times- any excess fuel mix should drain out the sparkplug hole.
But it could be simple flooding from an incorrectly set or assembled carb- making the pug try to spark underwater so to speak rather than ignite a volatile vapour mix. When you have trouble starting and take the plug out- is it really wet? Will a mist of fluid exit the chamber when the plug is out, saw right side up and rope pulled?
Took off the clutch and the muffler. Didn't see anything unusual. What I could see of the piston, it looked fine. Next I will pull the flywheel. The only thing I can think it could be is someone installed an oversized piston?
They are a fairly peculiar piston that you cannot really confuse with that of another saw and if it were for say the 440 not the 435- no way in heck it is going into the bore- so oversized piston might be a bit of a reach.
I guess they could have deleted the cylinder joint gasket halves and replaced with liquid sealant? That might up the compression a wee bit.
However it would be more likely the squish band and piston top were well carboned up to up compression by closing the combustion chamber.
I guess they could have deleted the cylinder joint gasket halves and replaced with liquid sealant? That might up the compression a wee bit.
However it would be more likely the squish band and piston top were well carboned up to up compression by closing the combustion chamber.
It can be removed- but the cylinder has to come off to do it.
Make sure the flywheel is not loose- or rubbing the coil first- then perhaps check if the flywheel key is still in place and the wheel correctly aligned.
Does the saw have a normal ordinary recoil starter- or one of those soft start option versions?
Make sure the flywheel is not loose- or rubbing the coil first- then perhaps check if the flywheel key is still in place and the wheel correctly aligned.
Does the saw have a normal ordinary recoil starter- or one of those soft start option versions?
Bustech17
New member
Pull the flywheel and see if the keyway that is molded into the flywheel is the least bit sheared. I had this issue with a couple of older 350's. Just my 2 cents. Hydro lock would make sense too if the needle and seat are leaking by. Come to think of it, I had a 346 XP with a leaking needle and when I went to start it, I actually sheared the flywheel key by pulling the starter just enough to throw the timing off causing a hard to start syndrome. Also if you can see a part number on the coil, check it against an IPL to see if it matches (including any superseded numbers)
I thought maybe it was an issue with the flywheel so I just replaced it... no help. Removed the clutch, drum, bearing and oiler gear... still the same. Removed the exhaust... no luck. There is no fuel, removed the carburetor... still the same. Next I will remove the cylinder and check the carbon build up. There is no liquid in the cylinder. I have 2 other saws, an 011 ave stihl and a 041 av super. The 435 should pull something close to the 011, but it pulls 3 times harder than my 041.
Well if you removed all that stuff and no change- what are the odds of starter pulley damage being the cause of your issues?
If you take the starter off the saw does the rope pull nice, smooth and easy?
If you take the starter off the saw does the rope pull nice, smooth and easy?
So today I reinstalled the rebuilt starter (new plastic starter pulley) but it is still hard to pull. I removed the spark plug and it pulls easy. I did notice carbon build up on the piston top so I put the piston at TDC and sprayed some carb cleaner in there. I will let that sit for the day dump it and see if the carbon goes away. Is there something better to use to dissolve the carbon? I will also do the same and turn the saw upside down to get the top of the cylinder.
Then where does the watered down carbon go?
Oh, yep- okay.