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Clean looking saw for the vintage- usually missing a lot more paint from the rear handle especially. Decals still on top cover- doubt its seen a whole lot of hard work.

You have the big washer under the clutch eh? And it is the correct way up? Someone has not replaced the washer under the E clip with the thin one where it should perhaps be the thick one? (there are two types)

As I said- you can pit the cheap one on to get it running then work on the original one. In my experience the cheap top ends are very "variable" in the port timing and never seem to make as good as original power- so you might get it to run, but never as well as it could run or did run. Online...

Not a family of saws I work on- but I know they come lean from the factory- the whole standards and EPA emission rules etc. Without hearing/seeing- vacuum and pressure test would be a good place to start- full fuel delivery system check- filter, fuel lines etc for splits, cracks, clogging...

Seem to remember reading similar somewhere- unless there is any damage or wear to the clip ears- replacement top is probably the best fix.

Swapped a low top 288XP today. Has a few "issues" like the busted wrap mount, busted starter pulley, busted choke pull- but nothing too major. I think the first ever 2094 I have seen here that does not have the factory side fitted decomp valve and has been retro fitted with one in the top.

So you got it sorted and you are all good?

Into the master control lever- under the spring metal clip that carries grounding from the cylinder to that wire and grounds out the coil to stop the saw. As viewed from the rear of the saw, slightly right of the choke rod entry to the main control lever there is a channel the brass end of the...

Husqvarna 41- not one of my favourite saws in any guise of the family from 36 to 141- but there are lots of them out there. If the saw is old enough to not have limiters on the carb adjustment screws- 1/4 turn out from lightly seated is not going to work and is WAY too lean. Base settings for...

Doc- where did we get to? have you decided to put it in the too hard basket- starting looking at why the saw is not performing as it should by means other than compression? No reason just for fun you cant swap out the original piston and cylinder for the Chinese one and then work on fixing that...

Had the opportunity to pick up another Jonsereds at the weekend, first points ignition one I own and only the second one I have seen for sale here in the last 5 years or so. Was part of a storage locker clean out, was VERY cheap, basically complete (only part missing is the kill switch) and...

And the 031 runs? So therefore compression is not your issue and something else is? If it were mine, I would cut the slot with a good old hand held hand powered hacksaw- like I said, bush fix. Never tried a paint thinners brew- might work, but I have no experience in doing so. No experience...

What type of compression tester are you using? If its a cheap automotive type- odds are it is giving you a false reading- as they are not designed for small engine testing- they need high volume of high pressure gasses to measure. Small engine testers have a weak Schrader valve in the very...

If you have the tooling- BEFORE you tear it all apart- be a great time to do a pressure and vacuum test on it to determine why it lost compression. Could be as simple as just needing new rings. Picture of the piston through the exhaust port (with the muffler first removed) is always a good...

Ah the good old Chinese kits- never liked them- never as good as original nor do they last as long. You have to be pretty particular with those Chinese retaining clips for the piston wrist pin- or they fall out....... Photos of the inside of the original cylinder? Original piston? Do you know...

Rebuild for what? Are you putting a new top end cylinder and piston on the old crankcase? Do you know what caused it to need rebuilt? Do you have a 100% complete saw to start rebuilding? Have done a few of the 028 and 038 rebuilds from scratch- have examples of 028's here for reference-...

First up- chainsaws do not have blades- they have bars. Chains are ordered to fit a system- ie: they must match the drive sprocket of the saw and the specifications of the bar. You must know and match, pitch, gauge and drive link count. If still legible- all this information should be stamped...

No idea- but whatever ratio you decide (I like 40:1) the saw must be tuned for that ratio. Likely it was recommended 25:1 or 33:1 or similar with 30wt oil- modern 2 stroke oils are much better than the options of the 1970's.

Its a Roper- defined by the 917 prefix on the serial number. Exact model I am not sure- possibly you were looking at Poulan 25's as they look similar- but not the same. Search Roper 2.5 and see what you get?

See- told you I was not familiar with the type. Yes, if you are pretty sure the rest is in order- thinner oil may help. Personally I have half and halved bar oil and either diesel or kerosene to test/clean out systems.