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Sorry- was early AM when I read your post- you are NOT running a Stihl bar- just used Stihl oil. So we are back to possible blockage or mechanical issues. You could try reverse air through the system, from the bar pad back to the oil tank- clean up the oil tank breather. I have an exploded...

The drive sprocket on the clutch drum is absolutely worn out and damaging the chain drive links that badly they are binding in the bar rails. Were you having "issues" recently, so replaced an old worn out bar and chain? If so it is likely the drive sprocket or spur is just as worn and probably...

Just so happens- I have a pair of the same saws- but have not had any issues with the oiling system of either. First guess would be a blockage in the system- you can try a thin oil mixed with kerosene or diesel to "wash out" the system, or back blow the system with compressed air and see if...

It is kind of complicated to explain- not sure if I have an 011 to show you- but in the corner of the air box the carb is in there is a hole that has foam in it- the vent hose terminated in that foam and later models had a fuel filter at the end of the vent hose laying on the floor of the air...

It is a very simplistic way of allowing air back into the tank to replace used fuel and stop fuel exiting the tank when the saw is orientated to the side. Similar can be recreated with Tygon type fuel line and the original grub screws to form a replacement, the trick is finding line the same...

Well you need a drive link count to know if it is the same as a premade loop- or if you want to have one made at any saw shop worth a dime. You will also need to know pitch and gauge. Or you will need to supply any information regarding the DL count, pitch and gauge that may or may not be on or...

Very cool set up. Looks to be in real nice condition. Step 1: Remove chain. Step 2: Mark a drive link with a paint pen or sharpie. Step 3: Count the drive links of the existing chain. Step 4: Measure gauge with callipers or micrometre. Step 5: Order new chain to those conclusions.

https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/husqvarna-5mm-adjustment-tool-for-carburettors-oem-no-598-84-69-01.html?fbclid=IwY2xjawM8QAdleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETFkQXlraGt1amdGSlpWYlVEAR47z8v_2vjVPv_wh5QT1sLBU9C5z-btj4Fiy1m2si5U7uUjQKvaoRxUHFekYA_aem_XhUjabAb-c7_cXSVPdL8aQ

The tool I am thinking off has a red handle and black shaft. Give me a minute and I might be able to find a part number

Yeah be the "cannot be had in the USA" tool- 5mm 20 spline. Either import one from the UK- or at a pinch the larger spline tool from the cheap kit can be used with a wad of plastic ot tshirt to take up the slack- or, the PacMan shape tool can be pushed on. If you get something to make them...

Which Husqvarna product are we speaking about? Offhand I cannot remember which models- but there are a couple of newer saws and line trimmers that require a different count multi spline tool that is not available to the general public.

Best indicator of abnormal wear is of the piston as viewed through the exhaust port- rather than bore scope of the cylinder walls. I will admit to not having a great deal of love for the Husqvarna 4## series- they are somewhat of a consumer grade saw- not meant for heavy use, nor cost effective...

It is only confusing until you know what you didn't know. I am pretty sure the people that write the leaflets that claim to be instruction manuals for grinders all went to University and got degrees- not written by practical blue collar folk. :p

Full or semi chisel makes no difference- use the stone that matches the pitch and the angles you decide upon. Different stones for different pitches is just the same as different file sizes for different pitches in hand filing applications- there are no file specifications for full versus semi...

Yes, generally speaking- 3/8 LP and .325 chain use the thinner stone and standard 3/8 or .404 use the next size up. The reasoning being, the larger stone would cut into the side plates of the smaller chain and the smaller stone on the larger chain would not cut the correct profile gullet. Not...

First off- detect exactly why you burned up the piston and cylinder on the original- put up photos of how bad it is/isnt. Many an OEM cylinder can be cleaned up of transfer and put back to use again with a new piston and rings. Considerable cost saving. If it was not straight gas that took out...

Clammy cylinder = clamshell design- where the machine has a plastic case and the cylinder extends down to form half of the crank encapsulating area- like a clamshell. Under the saw, bottom of the case, partially hidden under the tank tail- are four T27 bolts that hold the cylinder to the plastic...

Wont set? Or is touchy to set- but does not alter? If it cannot be tuned out to balance- odds are pretty good it has an air leak somewhere. Check the intake block and gaskets associated to the intake system.

No idea off hand where the yellow goes- I shy away from trying to repair consumer grade saws if I can. However there are several Craftsman 55's in the shed, willing to bet they are much the same saw in a different colour.

Ah the big Stihl plastic saws- gotta love to hate them. First thing I would be doing is checking the condition of the piston through the exhaust port with the muffler off. Next thing would be pressure testing the fuel line with the filter removed- thus also testing the carb. Plastic clamshell...