Who uses Stihls 2 in 1?

theammixman

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Just curious. Who uses Stihls 2 in 1?

I know it’s prob but the best tool for the job but I think it’s decent, and it fits my needs. Here’s the thing. I’m a part time stump grinder with a small grinder. I use two 46’s to cut the big stumps low before I grind them.

It is typical that I have to re sharpen my quickly dulled chain 1 or more times per tank. I can tell when it doesn’t have bite anymore and have learned my time is better spent taking 10 mins to sharpen my chain instead of struggling till in out of gas again.

I hammer a bar clamp into the stump. Use the 2 in 1 tool(carefully on the skip tooth chain as to not take of too much raker). And go back to work.

Anyone have a better way to sharpen on the job?

Bruce
 
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BayouCountryPowerSaws

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Just curious. Who uses Stihls 2 in 1?

I know it’s prob but the best tool for the job but I think it’s decent, and it fits my needs. Here’s the thing. I’m a part time stump grinder with a small grinder. I use two 46’s to cut the big stumps low before I grind them.

It is typical that I have to re sharpen my quickly dulled chain 1 or more times per tank. I can tell when it doesn’t have bite anymore and have learned my time is better spent taking 10 mins to sharpen my chain instead of struggling till in out of gas again.

I hammer a bar clamp into the stump. Use the 2 in 1 tool(carefully on the skip tooth chain as to not take of too much raker). And go back to work.

Anyone have a better way to sharpen on the job?

Bruce
So Oregon makes a specific chain for adverse cutting conditions conditions called a duracut, It should last longer in your application, here it is on their website.

 
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BayouCountryPowerSaws

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Only downside is I don't know if it would be worth the extra price and be cost effective
 

theammixman

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Only downside is I don't know if it would be worth the extra price and be cost effective
Well. This is not what I expected. Even though I read what you wrote I was expecting to find another kind of sharpener when I first opened the web page.

Like you mentioned it may or may not be worth the cost. At least for now. I already have 2 36” bars one new in the box and two 28”s. And got to be 4 or 6 chains for both. I don’t use them every day or every job even so what I have will unfortunately/fortunate last through this year and next.

Either way I thank you much for the knowledge!! I had previously thought of one of those fire chains with carbide tips but they’re hundreds of dollars I think when I looked, and then it’s how to sharpen carbide again(I already send my stump grinder teath out cause I don’t want to do it anymore).

When I have some time I will absolutely circle back to this and figure the costs to replace my gear now with that system for each saw/bar combo or one system similar. Maybe there’s more out there, who knows?

Thanks Kensie!
 

Skalleywag

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I've used the 2 in 1 sharpener before. It was kind of a training aid for me until I got freehand sharpening down pretty good. I'm working on my square filing techniques now.
 
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BayouCountryPowerSaws

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Well. This is not what I expected. Even though I read what you wrote I was expecting to find another kind of sharpener when I first opened the web page.

Like you mentioned it may or may not be worth the cost. At least for now. I already have 2 36” bars one new in the box and two 28”s. And got to be 4 or 6 chains for both. I don’t use them every day or every job even so what I have will unfortunately/fortunate last through this year and next.

Either way I thank you much for the knowledge!! I had previously thought of one of those fire chains with carbide tips but they’re hundreds of dollars I think when I looked, and then it’s how to sharpen carbide again(I already send my stump grinder teath out cause I don’t want to do it anymore).

When I have some time I will absolutely circle back to this and figure the costs to replace my gear now with that system for each saw/bar combo or one system similar. Maybe there’s more out there, who knows?

Thanks Kensie!
Yea I've seen the same reply over and over of people giving the same example to go carbide, but carbide teeth are super slow cutting and super expensive.

I personally file by hand and on big bars there isn't much to my knowledge that is faster once you are proficient at it.

Husqvarna makes a little guide that is easy and fairly quick to use. It appears here in this article on their website: https://www.husqvarna.com/us/discover/how-to-sharpen-a-chainsaw/

I've also heard of people swapping out chains, but that also adds a lot of work to sharpen dull chains every night. So I'm not sure how feasible that is for you either.
 

Wonka13

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Well. This is not what I expected. Even though I read what you wrote I was expecting to find another kind of sharpener when I first opened the web page.

Like you mentioned it may or may not be worth the cost. At least for now. I already have 2 36” bars one new in the box and two 28”s. And got to be 4 or 6 chains for both. I don’t use them every day or every job even so what I have will unfortunately/fortunate last through this year and next.

Either way I thank you much for the knowledge!! I had previously thought of one of those fire chains with carbide tips but they’re hundreds of dollars I think when I looked, and then it’s how to sharpen carbide again(I already send my stump grinder teath out cause I don’t want to do it anymore).

When I have some time I will absolutely circle back to this and figure the costs to replace my gear now with that system for each saw/bar combo or one system similar. Maybe there’s more out there, who knows?

Thanks Kensie!
I’ve used every type of carbide, bullet-chain, Rescue-chain out there…not worth the $$ or hassle in my opinion, but my usage of them was for other work, not stumping, so take that for what it’s worth😉😁
 

tacotodd

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I’m with you @Wonka13. Freehand & no file guide (except for depth gauges) is the way to go, I’m still slowly but surely getting faster all the time! And like @Skalleywag said, also slowly (investigating) working on my square filing (just NOWAY that I can afford that kind of dough on the proper square grinder).
 

jasent

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I still need to learn how to use that goofy thing, BUT I love that it has both hard & soft wood (🤔😆) settings…my others are single @ .025”.
I use the soft wood side for all my saws but i don’t cut much hard wood
 

tacotodd

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I still need to learn how to use that goofy thing, BUT I love that it has both hard & soft wood (🤔😆) settings…my others are single @ .025”.
Take that gauge & lay it on your sawchain. PHO towards you & bar tip away. Split end goes on chain with the funky shaped hole on top of a depth gauge. It’s a combination of the cutter for the tooth that you’re working on and the rivet in front of the tooth somewhere that provides a down stop of sorts. I’m not so good at trying verbally describe it but, IT WORKS. That same full-size 3/8 tool works for lo-pro or pico😝 (pico is the Stihl trademark, same thing). If you have to work every thing hard then it’ll blunt the cutter just slightly. Give it a little tickle with your saws file aft

BTW, if in doubt, go with the soft setting. It’ll prevent you from premature PTO bearing wear & seal leaks because of beat up bearings from the excessive surge that’s eminent.

Almost without exception the gauge plates get filled down and replacement is needed. The Husqvarna version that is depth gauge tool ONLY Is no exception. I don’t know about the file guide combo unit. If it’s hardened then it’s not going to need replacement like most. Fingers crossed that my input has helped you in figuring out how to use that little device, It took me weeks of trying to figure it out with no help; that’s prior to my “discovery” of YouTube 🤫
 

Wonka13

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Take that gauge & lay it on your sawchain. PHO towards you & bar tip away. Split end goes on chain with the funky shaped hole on top of a depth gauge. It’s a combination of the cutter for the tooth that you’re working on and the rivet in front of the tooth somewhere that provides a down stop of sorts. I’m not so good at trying verbally describe it but, IT WORKS. That same full-size 3/8 tool works for lo-pro or pico😝 (pico is the Stihl trademark, same thing). If you have to work every thing hard then it’ll blunt the cutter just slightly. Give it a little tickle with your saws file aft

BTW, if in doubt, go with the soft setting. It’ll prevent you from premature PTO bearing wear & seal leaks because of beat up bearings from the excessive surge that’s eminent.

Almost without exception the gauge plates get filled down and replacement is needed. The Husqvarna version that is depth gauge tool ONLY Is no exception. I don’t know about the file guide combo unit. If it’s hardened then it’s not going to need replacement like most. Fingers crossed that my input has helped you in figuring out how to use that little device, It took me weeks of trying to figure it out with no help; that’s prior to my “discovery” of YouTube 🤫
Appreciate the info!! I usually don’t get too crazy with the rakers as less seems to be more when it comes to those things. I know some guys out here will run ‘em @ .050-.060, but all I get are chains stuck doing that😆. I find, for me at least, that .030” and a sharp 32” full skip chisel chain work well in the ponderosa without getting me into too much trouble😉😁
 

tacotodd

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I freehand file for the most part, but do use the 2in1's when I'm somewhere that I can't get into a good position. On the ground, side of a hill etc.
After a while you get fairly good at going at it in less than ideal areas. Just got to keep after it, but then again, I just file with one hand 🤨 I know that my way is NOT normal, but after all my trying to do it the “correct” way I continually foul it up. But then again, I keep “trying harder everyday”. I know, it’s a fouled up world and and all that…
 

Desert Beaver

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Husky roller guide gives you a little freedom on angle, lets you see what’s going on, and creates muscle memory for freehand.
Also with a smaller file or worn rollers or both you can get more hook/speed. ;-)
 

Chainmale

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After a while you get fairly good at going at it in less than ideal areas. Just got to keep after it, but then again, I just file with one hand 🤨 I know that my way is NOT normal, but after all my trying to do it the “correct” way I continually foul it up. But then again, I keep “trying harder everyday”. I know, it’s a fouled up world and and all that…
It's more that I can get a better sharpen and hook free filing, if I'm in the middle of a job and need a quick sharpen to get things finished is where I find the 2in1 has it's place for me
 

Justsendit

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Just curious. Who uses Stihls 2 in 1?

I know it’s prob but the best tool for the job but I think it’s decent, and it fits my needs. Here’s the thing. I’m a part time stump grinder with a small grinder. I use two 46’s to cut the big stumps low before I grind them.

It is typical that I have to re sharpen my quickly dulled chain 1 or more times per tank. I can tell when it doesn’t have bite anymore and have learned my time is better spent taking 10 mins to sharpen my chain instead of struggling till in out of gas again.

I hammer a bar clamp into the stump. Use the 2 in 1 tool(carefully on the skip tooth chain as to not take of too much raker). And go back to work.

Anyone have a better way to sharpen on the job?

Bruce
Bruce, have you ever pulled the center, raker file out of the tool when you sharpen? I used the 2-in-1 exclusively for about 6 months before I got my grinder and we go through a lot of chain. We break in about 700 saws a year and 2-3 tanks per saw so that’s a bunch if sharpening. Anyways, take the raker file out of the tool and only use it about 1 out of every 3-4 sharpenings. Otherwise it just takes too much raker each time. I like the 2-in-1 for field use when I’m tired and I don’t have a heavy duty vise to get the saw in exactly the right position I like for freehand sharpening. Yes, I know the stump vise works nicely, but I have back problems and it’s hard for me to get down on a low stump and get my angles the way I like them.

My advice would be to use whatever system is comfortable and allows you to make nice consistent teeth on both sides. With cutting stumps so low you don’t have the margin of error to have one side of the cutters off and make a cut that drives down towards the dirt. Lol, I just got done sharpening a 46” chain off one of our 880s that a good custimer dug into the dirt accidentally when he wasn’t watching what he was doing. Luckily he was right next door to my shop when he did it and I could fix the chain for him. Well, I could bandage it for him anyways. As you know, dirt will destroy a chain rather quickly! He needed about an hours worth of fixing to get this one back in shape.

What are you using to sharpen back in the shop? Are you using a grinder or by hand? What type of chain are you using? I find .404” Semi Chisel will stand up to a lot more abuse for stump cutting than a 3/8” Chisel. I also find a harder brand like Stihl or archer works better than Oregon and lasts longer. When we have customers using Oregon they complain of having to sharpen more often as the teeth get dull a lot faster.

Hopefully this info is helpful!
 
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