New member, new to saws, 93' 044 Project

[kootenay-cal]

Hey,
I was given a 93’ slant fin 044 I got in return for some tractor work. Although I really wanted a new Husky 372, I’m realizing that this old girl is worth the restore/rebuild. My fiancés father lives “off grid” and used this to fell trees to build a house, barn and many other outbuildings. She’s tired, has been run hard and put away wet.

I pulled it all apart the other night, had a look at the piston, which is scored up, the top ring was actually stuck/smeared. So I went onto wolf creek and ordered a new jug and piston kit and wrist pin bearing

Today I used some compressed air & citrus cleaner and cleaned 30 years worth of oil, sawdust and crap out of every nook and cranny.

Now, this chainsaw thing is a new form of ‘tism to me, I’m a mechanic for a Caterpillar dealer, so I am mechanically inclined but 2 strokes/small motors that do 14k rpm are new to me.

It did idle well, and run, although down on power but wouldn't rev out. so I know the carb is functioning well.

Plans:

1. install new piston and jug
2. new plug
3. Oregon bar 24” new chain
4. new felling dogs
5. new air filter

Questions for the experts:

1)Is the spark plug lead boot supposed to come off the lead? This is how I got it running when it supposedly “not running” a quick google seems to confirm this is normal but just to make sure.

2)How hard is it to upgrade to the HD filter?

3) is it possible to put the wrist pin cir-clips on without a tool?

4) is cleaning out the bottom end with mix gas the best way?

Please be patient,

Thank you

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

First and foremost- you need to know what caused the lean condition that took out the piston (do not trash the cylinder just yet- it may be saveable)- if you do not correct that- you are throwing good money away as it will just eat the new top end the same.

Once reassembled it really needs pressure and vacuum tested for air leaks- ideally this would be done before teardown- but we are already past that point.

Yep, the plug lead boot is removable.
As hard as buying some and fitting some new parts- use OEM not aftermarket for air filters.
Well yes it is- if you count a small flat blade screwdriver and or fine nose pliers as "no tools".
Yes, flush out well with mixed fuel and compressed air- as I am thinking you cleaned 30 years of crud off when the cylinder was removed?

I would be highly suspect of the main crank bearings and checking them well. Looking at the big end bearing VERY well and replacing the crank oil seals without question.
Seeing as how you live in E fuel land- without hesitation I would be replacing fuel line and filter, impulse lines, new intake manifold and a new carb kit as well.