I;m forever sharping my chain(s)

john-o

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I have a STIHL Farm boss 290. The chain that came with it is a 3639 005 0074 26RS 74
It seems that the life span of this type of chain (low kick back) requires sharpening a lot.
I'll go through three, 20ft, ok logs, then the chain is not cutting. If I do get a cut, sawdust
is the output. Is this life expectancy - usage, normal. Would a longer bar - I have 18 inches
for a bar, and/or a different model chain serve me better?
I'm not a professional. I use the chainsaw about twice a year for cutting wood for my
wood burning furnace..
 

Nutball

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Any Stihl brand chain stays sharp for a long time over some other brands. A razor sharp edge can wear out relatively quickly, but should still cut well enough after 3 logs. Make sure the chain isn't touching the dirt as you finish a cut. Cut part way through, then roll the log over to finish the cuts if you can, or save finishing the cuts for last if you can't roll the log. Finish them slow and gently so you tell you are through before cutting into the ground. If there is dirt on the side of the log, cut so that the dirt is on the side of the log you are standing on so the chain pulls the dirt off the log as it cuts rather than through the log.

I've had good luck with my chain staying sharp in dirty conditions lately as I am careful, but recently the second cut I made one morning just barely touched a piece of gravel on the ground under the log and completely dulled that chain.

Logs with dirt filled hollow rotten spots can dull a chain fast as well as where 2 large trunks come together can have dirt and gravel trapped in there. Some woods draw up minerals into the stump making that part of the log hard on a chain.

Make sure you file the depth gauges on the chain properly every few sharpenings, this will keep the chain performing well.
 

Bob Hedgecutter

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I'll go through three, 20ft, ok logs, then the chain is not cutting.

Is that cut down 3 20ft trees from standing- or make 3 cuts in a 20 inch log?

Perhaps the sharpening technique just requires a bit of work- what sharpening system are you using?
Photographs of the cutters of the chain in question would be good.
Maybe take the chain to a saw shop and have them machine sharpen it once, see if that makes any difference (can be a double edged sword).

RS chain is about the best you can get- should not be the chain as such that is at fault.
If what you are cutting has been dragged to a site for further processing- then dirty wood could be your problem- or ground strikes, often this happens when the chain contacts the ground on the far side of the log- the one you are not looking at as you cut through to the bottom of a log laying on the ground- you watch your side to make sure it does not contact the ground- but often the tip is in the dirt and you never see it!
 

Fabz

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I usually get about a tank of fuel or so before the chain needs to be touched-up again. Percentage-wise I’d say about 90% sharp. You could keep cutting with it for a fuzz longer but from my perspective it’s better to bring a few saws with sharp chains and just grab another saw. As a bonus to this method I find the chains last longer when you only need use a few strokes of the file, the files last longer too! 😉.
 

Moparmyway

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I usually get about a tank of fuel or so before the chain needs to be touched-up again. Percentage-wise I’d say about 90% sharp. You could keep cutting with it for a fuzz longer but from my perspective it’s better to bring a few saws with sharp chains and just grab another saw. As a bonus to this method I find the chains last longer when you only need use a few strokes of the file, the files last longer too! 😉.
Nice post Fabz
 

Czed

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I have a STIHL Farm boss 290. The chain that came with it is a 3639 005 0074 26RS 74
It seems that the life span of this type of chain (low kick back) requires sharpening a lot.
I'll go through three, 20ft, ok logs, then the chain is not cutting. If I do get a cut, sawdust
is the output. Is this life expectancy - usage, normal. Would a longer bar - I have 18 inches
for a bar, and/or a different model chain serve me better?
I'm not a professional. I use the chainsaw about twice a year for cutting wood for my
wood burning furnace..
Conditions mean everything
In dirty/mud covered wood I can see getting
Little time on a sharpening.
When cutting otherwise you should be getting far longer use out of those chains
Maybe Pick up a Husqvarna roller file kit
That'll keep your teeth consistent
And you can dress the rakers as needed. Screenshot_20211008_111846.jpg
Personally Stihl out priced their value
When their chains went to
30.00+ locally
I run Carlton, Oregon and the very inexpensive bat country chain.
 

Fabz

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Stihl chains may be a bit more $$$ up front but they seem to be made of a harder steel and the chrome coating is superior to other brands.
 

R&R

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Conditions mean everything
In dirty/mud covered wood I can see getting
Little time on a sharpening.
When cutting otherwise you should be getting far longer use out of those chains
Maybe Pick up a Husqvarna roller file kit
That'll keep your teeth consistent
And you can dress the rakers as needed. View attachment 735
Personally Stihl out priced their value
When their chains went to
30.00+ locally
I run Carlton, Oregon and the very inexpensive bat country chain.
I agree, chains can be hit or miss. Yes, even Stihl chains. Have purchased some Carlton and Laser chains that seem to hold their edge better than big name brands, but type of wood and how it's been handled makes a huge difference. Drag a log through our sandy soil here and watch sparks fly.
 
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I have a STIHL Farm boss 290. The chain that came with it is a 3639 005 0074 26RS 74
It seems that the life span of this type of chain (low kick back) requires sharpening a lot.
I'll go through three, 20ft, ok logs, then the chain is not cutting. If I do get a cut, sawdust
is the output. Is this life expectancy - usage, normal. Would a longer bar - I have 18 inches
for a bar, and/or a different model chain serve me better?
I'm not a professional. I use the chainsaw about twice a year for cutting wood for my
wood burning furnace..
did you check the rakers thay mnight be to high
 

john-o

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chainsawmaster1000

Bingo! You hit it dead on. I used a measuring tool that I bought shortly after purchasing my 290, and in that kit was some sort of a tool that looked kinda strange. I then found out that this thing is to measure the height of the rakers. I just started filing the rakers to the correct height and it made all the difference in the world. So, fast forward to yesterday. A branch of good size came down in my neighbor's yard - a mulberry tree branch I think he told me. My 290 with the spec'd chain, went through that 8 inch branch with ease.
The longer I own this 290, and visit this site, the more knowledge I acquire about handling and using this 290. I was going to purchase a longer bar, but all the advice that I've received from the pros that do this kind of cutting for a living told me - "don't go experimenting with something that I know nothing about".
QUESTION
I'm 76 years old, and reaching some limits to my physical tolerances. My STIHL 290 is getting to be a bit too much for me to handle, and handle safely. I now look for wood with a max of 8" in diameter, precut lengths of 25 -30 foot in length. What STIHL model would I be looking for to meet my cutting requirements? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

Fabz

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A 241c (unfortunately NLA but can be found from private sale) at 9.9lbs might be the ticket if you prefer STIHL . It’s lightweight and packs a punch for 42cc and is good on fuel.
 

john-o

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This is a coincidence. A cutting crew was taking down a dead tree two blocks over from me, so I drove over and asked the operator cutting the large branches off what he recommended. When I told him I had a 290, he said he had one, but it proved to be heavy and difficult to manage in the bucket when he was cutting higher limbs. He had in his hands, a 241. He said it's a powerful tool for his work, and I might want to stepping down in size, but not power. However the more I compared his 241 to my 290, at first glance, there didn't seem to be much of a size or weight difference. However, I brought my 290 over to the work sight and my 290 was about 12lbs with a full tank of gas, bar and chain. His 241 was about 10lbs with gas, bar and chain. For basically the same power, size and manageability, that extra weight loss, even if it's only 2 pounds, is worth looking into. Thank you Fabz.
 

Fabz

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You’re welcome sir! The 241 can be made into a much stronger saw if desired, the 290 is a clamshell design and can be made stronger but requires much more work. Here’s a video of a 241c thru some smaller sugar maple. Originally an insane-o build from Hotsaws101, I changed a few things to give more torque in our NY hardwoods. It seems the gents on the west (left) coast favor higher-rpm power / chain speed as the wood they are cutting is made of cheese. In true wny hardwoods (knotty, gnarly wood) torque rules the day. Another saw to consider is the 261c which is STIHL available. A tad heavier than the 241c , it can also be made into a real ripper! ....
.... a 261c built by yours truly ....
 
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john-o

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Without being too personal, do you do this stuff for a living? The reason for asking is, how do you folks on this web site come by all this information? I thought I was pretty much UP on this stuff with learning how to sharpen my chain, take care of the bar, and cleaning the air filter. Talk about taking stepping down a few pegs. Geeeshh. The tree cutter that had the 241 suggested that I might want to look into changing the drive gear on my 290, and a few other modifications. Evidently, the ..."I want to relax a bit with a lighter wood eater," must've gotten lost in the conversation.
In a few more years I'll be in my 80's, so I want to temper my ambitions a bit to still manage cutting wood, splitting with my axe, and enjoying a warm fire. Wood heat is perfect for out size house and much warmer, IMO, to gas heat. Besides, the aroma that comes from burning oak, hickory, and other woods is very enjoyable. In fact, my wife and I even looked into purchasing a wood burning kitchen stove for out cellar. But those big boys are heavy and we're still tossing that Idea around.
Thank you Fabz for all you insight and information. I greatly appreciate your help.
 
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chainsawmaster1000

Bingo! You hit it dead on. I used a measuring tool that I bought shortly after purchasing my 290, and in that kit was some sort of a tool that looked kinda strange. I then found out that this thing is to measure the height of the rakers. I just started filing the rakers to the correct height and it made all the difference in the world. So, fast forward to yesterday. A branch of good size came down in my neighbor's yard - a mulberry tree branch I think he told me. My 290 with the spec'd chain, went through that 8 inch branch with ease.
The longer I own this 290, and visit this site, the more knowledge I acquire about handling and using this 290. I was going to purchase a longer bar, but all the advice that I've received from the pros that do this kind of cutting for a living told me - "don't go experimenting with something that I know nothing about".
QUESTION
I'm 76 years old, and reaching some limits to my physical tolerances. My STIHL 290 is getting to be a bit too much for me to handle, and handle safely. I now look for wood with a max of 8" in diameter, precut lengths of 25 -30 foot in length. What STIHL model would I be looking for to meet my cutting requirements? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
is the sthil c hain saw for sale i might be instrested all depending on the price shiped
 

Nutball

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A lot of us do this stuff for a living in some way or another, and with much discussion with other knowledgeable people, we each have acquired much information regarding all aspects of chainsaws.

Echo is worth a look: cs-490 and cs400 if you don't get a ms241.

I just checked the specs on a 241 and was disappointed to find it listed as 2.3hp, a 261 is 4.0hp, 290 is 3.8hp. The Echo cs-400 is either 2.15hp very good low end torque 10.1lbs, cs-490 is 3hp 10.6lbs. 5 year warranty, but Echo bars and chains are inferior to Stihl.

If you went the modified route, a Echo 352 with Stihl bar & chain (modified to fit) would be worth considering since they are light weight (8.6lbs I think) well built, and easier to work on that the equivalent Stihl 170/180. The .043 gauge Stihl bar and chain cuts very well for such a small (34cc) saw.
 

Fabz

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The 241c is 3.1 hp and the 261c 4.0hp , both from STIHLS Dyno ... The modded 241c (seen above at 42cc) will put the hurt on a stocker 261c (50cc) .... Of course when modded equally the 261c will outcut it .... 8cc is hard to overcome especially with dual (241c) vs quad transfers (261c)
 

RedneckChainsawRepair

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Might just be me. But comparing weights and you can run the 241 b+c set up on a 261 too, if wanting to save a few ounces there. 261 is a 2 for 1. Trim and can be used on more. If it got to be a stihl.

If I bought a small saw today. Echo 501 or cheaper vesrsion with same motor echo 4910. After running a ported 4910. It will make you forget all about those over priced priced 346's folks selling.

s241weight.jpg s2612weight.jpg
 

Nutball

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The 241c is 3.1 hp and the 261c 4.0hp , both from STIHLS Dyno ... The modded 241c (seen above at 42cc) will put the hurt on a stocker 261c (50cc) .... Of course when modded equally the 261c will outcut it .... 8cc is hard to overcome especially with dual (241c) vs quad transfers (261c)
Stupid me was looking at kW. I thought I double & triple checked which number I was looking at. It is 3.1hp
 
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