I have a Husqvarna 41 chainsaw that doesn't idle properly. I have replaced the carburetor, fuel pump and line, spark plug, and air filter. I mixed the 50:1 and put in the new fuel. The chainsaw starts fine. Idles with the choke on, and dies out when I pull the trigger or push the choke in. I have followed video instructions on adjusting the high (H) and low (L) to the correct starting point, all the way in and back a turn and a quarter. No success. With a brand new carburetor, I'm wondering how to idle and operate the chainsaw without having to fine tune it to work.
Husqvarna 41- not one of my favourite saws in any guise of the family from 36 to 141- but there are lots of them out there.
If the saw is old enough to not have limiters on the carb adjustment screws- 1/4 turn out from lightly seated is not going to work and is WAY too lean.
Base settings for me would be lightly seated on both H and L, turn both out counter clockwise one full turn (anywhere from one full turn to 1 and 1/4 out is a good start point) - turn the idle screw (LA) in a turn from where it was set and start the saw.
Turn the L screw in and or out in SMALL adjustments to find highest RPM and then from highest back the screw out 1/16th to an 1/8th of a turn so it is slightly rich off peak, then adjust the idle (LA) to a point of where the chain does not rotate at idle.
H is a bit different and you either need to know what you are hearing, or rely on a tachometer- you need to hear the burble of "4 stroking" that cleans up in the cut under load and then reverts to a slight burble at wide open throttle with load removed.
If after following that the saw will not tune or hold a tune- odds are very good the horrid wee thing has an air leak. These clamshell saws are renown for air leaks around the bottom engine pan and less than ideal intake system.
If the saw is old enough to not have limiters on the carb adjustment screws- 1/4 turn out from lightly seated is not going to work and is WAY too lean.
Base settings for me would be lightly seated on both H and L, turn both out counter clockwise one full turn (anywhere from one full turn to 1 and 1/4 out is a good start point) - turn the idle screw (LA) in a turn from where it was set and start the saw.
Turn the L screw in and or out in SMALL adjustments to find highest RPM and then from highest back the screw out 1/16th to an 1/8th of a turn so it is slightly rich off peak, then adjust the idle (LA) to a point of where the chain does not rotate at idle.
H is a bit different and you either need to know what you are hearing, or rely on a tachometer- you need to hear the burble of "4 stroking" that cleans up in the cut under load and then reverts to a slight burble at wide open throttle with load removed.
If after following that the saw will not tune or hold a tune- odds are very good the horrid wee thing has an air leak. These clamshell saws are renown for air leaks around the bottom engine pan and less than ideal intake system.
Thanks for sharing the technique to adjust the idle correctly. I can follow the instructions and hopefully improve my skills to make it work. Once it's running correctly, sell or gift the saw and upgrade...