Echo CS-590 Timber Wolf vs Husqvarna 460 Rancher

[in2b8er]

Hi guys,

I am new to the forum and I am not a professional arborist. I've used a Craftsman Chainsaw for the last couple of years and I am ready for an upgrade. I am trying to decide between Echo CS-590 and Husqvarna 460. Putting brand loyalty aside is one chainsaw really significantly better than the other? I just bought a small property and have to clear about a dozen 40ft trees. Once that's done, I'll probably just use the saw a few times a year to cut firewood or do storm clean up. I can get an Echo CS-590 at Home Depot for $370 and I can get a Husqvarna 460 at Lowes for $470. Is the Husqvarna really worth the extra $100?

I tried doing a search on this topic and didn't find any information.

Thank you for your advice in advance.

 

[Ronie]

I'm a Husqvarna guy but I would go with the 590 if I had to chose one them.

 

[Fabz]

Out of the 2 choices I’d go with the echo. A trip to eBay might be in line though. You might be able to get a serviceable 036 STIHL for around that coin. The 036pro is over 60cc and will put the hurt on either the echo or Husqvarna for around the same coin. Lighter , more powerful and if ya need more they can be made to run very strong by a knowledgeable builder.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Of the two- it would be Echo for me as well- not a whole lot between them bar the price by the looks.
But, I wonder what around $400 might snag you in the good used Husqvarna 2 series pro saws around the 60cc range? In my opinion- a nicer platform than any 036.

 

[Fabz]

For $400 u could easily snag a good running 262xp so that option is viable. I would take the 036 Pro personally, stock edge goes to 262xp ... either one of them wood be superior to the rancher or timber pup

 

[in2b8er]

Aren't these pro chainsaws run to the ground by the guys using them 8-12hrs a day? The saws already run full throttle unless they're idling. So I am hesitant in buying one of those. Refurbished with new parts and a factory warranty is another story i guess. Anyway cutting a few cords a year for personal use I bet the 590 will last me a lifetime. I currently have a 42cc Craftsman with a 16in bar that has been working great for me, but I have to clear a about 30 small trees and the craftsman over heats and stops running after about an hour. I am saving a few grand by doing the job myself so I figured I would buy a new saw to help me out.

 

[Fabz]

I’d go shopping and have a look see. I scored this 044 with a KS (kolberschmidt) top end that’s running about 180psi on the compression. Cosmetically it’s a little rough around the edges but mechanically sound and runs very strong stock! In fact , with a muffler mod and some intake/carb work it would show some ahem.... “known builders” 70cc class “ported” saws the door with the quickness. It’s always a crapshoot buying used but may be worth your while, for the same coin you’ll get ALOT more saw !

 

[jasent]

I just sold a fully rebuilt 268 yesterday for $400.

 

[The Firewood Hoarder]

Hi guys,

I am new to the forum and I am not a professional arborist. I've used a Craftsman Chainsaw for the last couple of years and I am ready for an upgrade. I am trying to decide between Echo CS-590 and Husqvarna 460. Putting brand loyalty aside is one chainsaw really significantly better than the other? I just bought a small property and have to clear about a dozen 40ft trees. Once that's done, I'll probably just use the saw a few times a year to cut firewood or do storm clean up. I can get an Echo CS-590 at Home Depot for $370 and I can get a Husqvarna 460 at Lowes for $470. Is the Husqvarna really worth the extra $100?

I tried doing a search on this topic and didn't find any information.

Thank you for your advice in advance.

I know several people that picked up the Cs-590 as a firewood saw and nobody has had anything bad to say about it. It is one of the best values currently out there for larger "Homeowner" chainsaw. Plus, it is current production, and you would have a warranty. The rancher 460 isn't a bad saw, but having run both the Echo and the Husky, I can't say one was any better than the other. With a good chain, they cut near equal to me

 

[in2b8er]

thanks guys. I'll be picking up the 590 this week.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Just a quick 30min muffler mod and carb retune they wake a bit on 590. Split the deflector in half. Toss inner. Just add a hole behind tube. Saves alot of time over removing tube.
Also I noticed some 590 come very lean from factory, Check that.
One I got from a owner had started to score and he ony had it 6 months.

 

[in2b8er]

Just a quick 30min muffler mod and carb retune they wake a bit on 590. Split the deflector in half. Toss inner. Just add a hole behind tube. Saves alot of time over removing tube.
Also I noticed some 590 come very lean from factory, Check that.
One I got from a owner had started to score and he ony had it 6 months.

View attachment 982

You mean the cylinder started to score?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

You mean the cylinder started to score?

Mine came in like that on a trade. Started scoring on P+C. To lean from factory. Saw ran fine. You would not even know it was happening running it till it is too late someday. I just pulled it down to muffler mod is how I found it.

Just be sure to check your tune. Your dealer should be able to do that for you if you dont know how.

 

[in2b8er]

Mine came in like that on a trade. Started scoring on P+C. To lean from factory. Saw ran fine. You would not even know it was happening running it till it is too late someday. I just pulled it down to muffler mod is how I found it.

Just be sure to check your tune. Your dealer should be able to do that for you if you dont know how.

View attachment 983
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Thank you. I’m getting the saw from Home Depot so no one will know anything. I’ll have to do all the tuning myself, I already have the carb tuning tools I just need a tachometer. Plus the 5yr warranty will hopefully cover other issues. I don’t want to mess with the warranty so I probably won’t do the muffler mod for the first 5yrs.

 

[Nutball]

They get extremely loud with that little extra hole drilled in the muffler and the inner deflector removed. It gives them quite a cackle.

 

[Ronie]

Just a quick 30min muffler mod and carb retune they wake a bit on 590. Split the deflector in half. Toss inner. Just add a hole behind tube. Saves alot of time over removing tube.
Also I noticed some 590 come very lean from factory, Check that.
One I got from a owner had started to score and he ony had it 6 months.

View attachment 982

I'd keep the inner baffel and cut it out to keep from it from melting plastic. On the first one I did I left it out and ended up making a plate to cover up that open spot. The next one I did I just cut the baffel out, last pic.

 

[Oakie]

I would take the Echo CS590, don't muffler mod it until you are sure
the saw is not running lean, lean means its not getting enough gas,
this causes the engine to overheat resulting in an eventual melt down,
caused by the piston to cylinder clearance getting tighter and also the
less gas going into the engines also results in less lubrication, as the lube
oil is mixed in with the gas.

I never got an Echo saw that was lean, but many have had this happen, so first thing
I would do is buy the tool to adjust the carb screw, I think this saw comes with restrictors
that prevent you from turning out the carb screws only allowing a small amount of adjustment.
Still, if you have the tool and adjust the H / High screw out as far as the limiters will allow and
then take a video of the saw starting up from cold, rev it a few times to ensure it is picking up speed
as it should, then leave it a minute idling to warm up, then do a few cuts letting the saw cut under its
own weight, lift the saw a few times during the cut and you should hear its engine tone change to what
is called four stroking, if it four strokes when you take the weight off and clears up again when back in the cut
your tune won't be far away.
If you take a video and post it here those in the know will offer advise, or at least spot a lean condition before it
does harm.

Oil in the mix, everyone has their own ideas on that, I go for 40:1 , others use 50:1, either will work just fine depending
on the tune of the saw and how heavy the load the saw is under.

 

[Oakie]

Mine came in like that on a trade. Started scoring on P+C. To lean from factory. Saw ran fine. You would not even know it was happening running it till it is too late someday. I just pulled it down to muffler mod is how I found it.

Just be sure to check your tune. Your dealer should be able to do that for you if you dont know how.

View attachment 983
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Very annoying when we pay our money and get what is a damaged product. I think Echo build a
good product and can not understand why some saws come like this, while other are rich.
I had three SX501 saws, all perfectly tuned from new, one CS352 that seemed to wander off tune,
it drove me nuts until I decided to stop chasing the ghost and left it set rich, sold that one and bought
a Makita EA4300, cracking saw for what it is, sadly Makita have now decided to produce no more
gas powered saws, should I sell or should I keep it, I bought two to have spares, even so, not happy
with Makita.

 

[in2b8er]

I would take the Echo CS590, don't muffler mod it until you are sure
the saw is not running lean, lean means its not getting enough gas,
this causes the engine to overheat resulting in an eventual melt down,
caused by the piston to cylinder clearance getting tighter and also the
less gas going into the engines also results in less lubrication, as the lube
oil is mixed in with the gas.

I never got an Echo saw that was lean, but many have had this happen, so first thing
I would do is buy the tool to adjust the carb screw, I think this saw comes with restrictors
that prevent you from turning out the carb screws only allowing a small amount of adjustment.
Still, if you have the tool and adjust the H / High screw out as far as the limiters will allow and
then take a video of the saw starting up from cold, rev it a few times to ensure it is picking up speed
as it should, then leave it a minute idling to warm up, then do a few cuts letting the saw cut under its
own weight, lift the saw a few times during the cut and you should hear its engine tone change to what
is called four stroking, if it four strokes when you take the weight off and clears up again when back in the cut
your tune won't be far away.
If you take a video and post it here those in the know will offer advise, or at least spot a lean condition before it
does harm.

Oil in the mix, everyone has their own ideas on that, I go for 40:1 , others use 50:1, either will work just fine depending
on the tune of the saw and how heavy the load the saw is under.

Thank you for the info. I’ve tuned weed whackers and leaf blowers before so I have a set if carb tuning screw drivers. I’ve watched many videos about tuning chainsaws and know what four stroking is. I plan on taking the low screw out 1/4 of a turn and taking the high screw out at least 1/2 a turn ( maybe all the way depending on how the limiters are set) that way i know the saw should run rich and not damage anything. I also run seafoam with all my small engines which should provide extra lubrication. I assume removing the limiters will void my warranty? Otherwise I’ll remove them in 5 yrs.

 

[Oakie]

Thank you for the info. I’ve tuned weed whackers and leaf blowers before so I have a set if carb tuning screw drivers. I’ve watched many videos about tuning chainsaws and know what four stroking is. I plan on taking the low screw out 1/4 of a turn and taking the high screw out at least 1/2 a turn ( maybe all the way depending on how the limiters are set) that way i know the saw should run rich and not damage anything. I also run seafoam with all my small engines which should provide extra lubrication. I assume removing the limiters will void my warranty? Otherwise I’ll remove them in 5 yrs.

Removing limiters will void your warranty. But when you go in with a cooked engine because it ran lean, be prepared for the
you straight gassed it line. I totally disregard any warranty on a saw, the usual line is you put straight gas in it, and what
can you do then, if it were me I would take off the limiters and adjust to ensure no lean burnup.
There may be no need to adjust the Low screw on the carb, as if it was too far in the saw would not rev up and be a little
unresponsive, which you would notice almost right away, saw needs to be warm before any adjustment of carb takes place.

If you buy the saw of a reputable dealer, he will tune it before he lets it out the door, that will ensure no damage due to lean running.
And he can remove the restrictors without voiding your warranty when he is an Echo dealer, Echo dealers here go on many cources
to ensure they are qualified and fit to work on the products they sell.