tacotodd
Member
What brand chain, gauge & pitch does everyone predominantly use? Also full chisel, semi chisel; full complement or full skip, heck, there’s even a special chainsaw carvers chain that IS full house.
Chain selection thread
- Thread starter tacotodd
- Start date
jasent
Well-known member
I predominantly use 3/8’s full chisel full comp
Either forester or stihl rs
Either forester or stihl rs
prmckenney
New member
- Local time
- 1:00 PM
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2021
- Reaction score
- 11
I've been running some Archer full skip on my Echo 7310 with a 28" bar, and I've been real happy with it. On my Stihl MS250, I run the Oregon LPX in .325. I can't tell the difference between the LGX and the LPX except that the LPX was cheaper on Amazon last time I ordered one.
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Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
tacotodd
Member
I was also referring to the gauge that you guys have picked out & the why’s behind your decisions.
On my first go around I was mistaken in my understanding about some information that I had read about from some “certain” people & I chose the incorrect one. Now I ask ALL the pertinent information regarding (now that I know the correct lingo).
All total, this entire experience has been very rewarding. I don’t have to even take my chains anywhere to get sharpened up because of my persistence in trying to do so. Now they cut like crazy, no crescent cuts coming from THIS country boy!
On my first go around I was mistaken in my understanding about some information that I had read about from some “certain” people & I chose the incorrect one. Now I ask ALL the pertinent information regarding (now that I know the correct lingo).
All total, this entire experience has been very rewarding. I don’t have to even take my chains anywhere to get sharpened up because of my persistence in trying to do so. Now they cut like crazy, no crescent cuts coming from THIS country boy!
Chris Paul
Member
Todd,
I am running the 3/8 .050 on both saws. I am not a logger so I don't see the need for the .063 .404 I my works. Have you done any experimenting with your cutting angles? It could be a tweak you can use in some situations.
tacotodd
Member
No I have not, just running my file parallel to the witness mark and at the same time I make sure that the edge of the cutter tooth remains parallel to the witness mark. I just go easy and not really hard & remember to change out the file anytime I get persistent difficulties in it. After all, files don’t last forever. IF YOU’RE LUCKY then you can get 2 chains from 1 file, sometimes 3 files for 1 chain. Just remember that files are a disposable commodity
.Crazy part of my filing process. I just am not able to use my files with both hands & I’m EXTREMELY right handed. But since I realize my limitations I do all of my filing with that hand. The left hand cutter is a breeze and the right hand cutter was the one that I had to experiment with to get it cutting properly.
For RH cutter1st make sure that your chain is properly tensioned. If the tooth rocks much, it’s not tight enough (but a little rock is expected) then I can use my bumbling left hand to app some slight pressure TOWARDS me while I file.
Since I have zero ability to file with both hands I use my left to hold the bar while filing the LH cutter and the pressure from holding the RH cutter works well (holding tooth pressure like that is also a good indicator for when I need to change my file).
With my method, I highly recommend doing the LH cutter 1st. Reason being: if the file slips out of the tooth while doing so then if your hand hits, it’s only a little slice. If you do the RH hand 1st, than that LH slip becomes a slice AND A RIP! Much more intensive and extensive & much more difficult healing
Predominantly 3/8 full chisel standard compliment.
I like Stihl RS, Carlton A3. Used to use a lot of Oregon and Sabre chain back in the day- can't get the Sabre now and I feel Oregon is not as good as it used to was.
Other than that, I have truckloads of chain, all sizes and on rolls or in loops. Some of it is good, some of it not so good, but in reality it is all okay- just some lasts longer between filings and some require less filing than others.
I have some real no brander type Chinese cheap as chips chain that will file up and cut- just dulls a bit faster than the expensive stuff.
Have had a good run with something called E&S chain of late- not far below the quality of modern Oregon, but WAY cheaper to buy.
I am running low on 3/8LP non safety full chisel chain I use on my MS200T and 201TC- dreading the day that runs out.
Have a bit of Husqvarna Xcut in 3/8 and that is pretty good stuff- once filed to where you like it.
One place I do use semi chisel, is in .404 as I tend to use .404 in dirty wood.
I have everything from 1/4" up to .404 in regular use and chains from many different manufacturers- I don't play brand favourites.
I like Stihl RS, Carlton A3. Used to use a lot of Oregon and Sabre chain back in the day- can't get the Sabre now and I feel Oregon is not as good as it used to was.
Other than that, I have truckloads of chain, all sizes and on rolls or in loops. Some of it is good, some of it not so good, but in reality it is all okay- just some lasts longer between filings and some require less filing than others.
I have some real no brander type Chinese cheap as chips chain that will file up and cut- just dulls a bit faster than the expensive stuff.
Have had a good run with something called E&S chain of late- not far below the quality of modern Oregon, but WAY cheaper to buy.
I am running low on 3/8LP non safety full chisel chain I use on my MS200T and 201TC- dreading the day that runs out.
Have a bit of Husqvarna Xcut in 3/8 and that is pretty good stuff- once filed to where you like it.
One place I do use semi chisel, is in .404 as I tend to use .404 in dirty wood.
I have everything from 1/4" up to .404 in regular use and chains from many different manufacturers- I don't play brand favourites.
Iroczu
Member
Main use saws are:
038 mag 32 and 28 inch stihl 050 full comp and skip full chisel
026 24 inch 050 full comp and sometimes skip full chisel
The sometimes I run:
Husky 162 I use the same Bars and chain from the 038
ms200t 16 inch 043 3/8 lp full chisel
025 16 inch 050 325 full chisel
038 mag 32 and 28 inch stihl 050 full comp and skip full chisel
026 24 inch 050 full comp and sometimes skip full chisel
The sometimes I run:
Husky 162 I use the same Bars and chain from the 038
ms200t 16 inch 043 3/8 lp full chisel
025 16 inch 050 325 full chisel
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tacotodd
Member
Alright guys, on my 365xt Husqvarna I run a 20” Stihl bar & 3/8 x .063 Stihl RS full comp on & a similar setup on my 372xt but 28”. Occasionally on the 372 I’ll run a 32” with a Stihl bar but full-skip & RSF. I tried full-comp on the 32 but the saw didn’t have quite enough giddy-up to run it for cross cutting efficiently (not enough chain speed & constantly bogged the motor).
BTW, the 365 is changed to 372 specs by transfer cover enhancement & the 372 has a generous muffmod.
BTW, the 365 is changed to 372 specs by transfer cover enhancement & the 372 has a generous muffmod.
854tga+
New member
jasent
Well-known member
I love those files too
3/8 .50 dominates this region
Dealers tell me.
Personally I run 84dl .50 full chisel
11.00 a loop bat country chain
To no ill effects
Have for 4 year's now
Since local Stihl 84dl in near 40.00 after 6% tax
Dealers tell me.
Personally I run 84dl .50 full chisel
11.00 a loop bat country chain
To no ill effects
Have for 4 year's now
Since local Stihl 84dl in near 40.00 after 6% tax
Justsendit
Member
Since I’m a dealer I stock a whole lot of different chain. I have 1/4” to .404” and the brands I have are Archer, Carlton, Forester, Oregon, and STIHL. I have Semi-Chsiel and Full chisel as well as Round Ground and Square ground.
My favorite all round chain is Archer full chisel and I have some in round and square ground that I use on the regular for personal cutting. However, I just rolled some Oregon 75CJ and 75CL into some loops for my saws and I’m looking forward to using it. I will day it does grind better than the Archer chain and I really like the new look of the chain construction. The Oregon chain I have used in the past has been fairly soft and did not keep an edge as long as the Archer or Stihl RS I have used in the past.
Now, why do I use .063” gauge over .050” you ask? Well, I go through a ton of chain. We break in 700+ saws a year in my shop and believe me that’s a lot of chain cutting cookies in a lot of different wood. All kinds of people are going to tell you all about how one out cuts the other and one is faster than the other. Or one takes more bite than the other. I’m here to tell you that’s all a bunch of pure unadulterated, and a very large pile of, bovine excrement. The only thing that is a different size is the drive link. The teeth are the exact same, the straps are the exact same, and the rivets are the exact same. If you want to time the difference between the two, be my guest but all you’re doing is wasting time. They run virtually the same in a field test and the differences are so minute, that even over the course of an 8 hour day it might make up a couple seconds of total cutting time difference. Maybe. So here’s the big difference, the .063” doesn’t stretch as much as the .050” and it carries the oil a lot better on the bar than .050”. We started as an .050” shop and after trying out .063” we made the switch and never looked back. Now, I do carry .050” in some of the smaller sizes but for the most part whoever we have the choice it’s .063”.
My favorite all round chain is Archer full chisel and I have some in round and square ground that I use on the regular for personal cutting. However, I just rolled some Oregon 75CJ and 75CL into some loops for my saws and I’m looking forward to using it. I will day it does grind better than the Archer chain and I really like the new look of the chain construction. The Oregon chain I have used in the past has been fairly soft and did not keep an edge as long as the Archer or Stihl RS I have used in the past.
Now, why do I use .063” gauge over .050” you ask? Well, I go through a ton of chain. We break in 700+ saws a year in my shop and believe me that’s a lot of chain cutting cookies in a lot of different wood. All kinds of people are going to tell you all about how one out cuts the other and one is faster than the other. Or one takes more bite than the other. I’m here to tell you that’s all a bunch of pure unadulterated, and a very large pile of, bovine excrement. The only thing that is a different size is the drive link. The teeth are the exact same, the straps are the exact same, and the rivets are the exact same. If you want to time the difference between the two, be my guest but all you’re doing is wasting time. They run virtually the same in a field test and the differences are so minute, that even over the course of an 8 hour day it might make up a couple seconds of total cutting time difference. Maybe. So here’s the big difference, the .063” doesn’t stretch as much as the .050” and it carries the oil a lot better on the bar than .050”. We started as an .050” shop and after trying out .063” we made the switch and never looked back. Now, I do carry .050” in some of the smaller sizes but for the most part whoever we have the choice it’s .063”.
tacotodd
Member
THAT is interesting. I wonder why nobody has ever publicly said that before. If they do then “I” didn’t hear/read it, until now. I’ll DEFINITELY remember what you said. I’ve thought about the use of the method for a worn out chain groove in the bar to where you work up slowly (and with the wear) from .050 then .058 and then after some weeks and months of use then the .063. But since on some of my bars I started off at .063 I can’t do that. I’d like some opinions on such a thing.
Nutball
Active member
I started going to .063 for reduced stretch from big powerful saws, but later found that .063 should not stretch any less than .050. The reason is because they use the same thickness drive links, except on .050 only the lower portion that rides in the bar groove is thinner. Perhaps some brands of chain have .050 thickness all the way, but from what I've seen, take a close look and you will see that on .050 big saw chain, the upper part of the DL is .063
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tacotodd
Member
I’ll check it out and report back…
Nutball
Active member
Cut whichever way draws the dirt off the log and not through it, and it really does help your chain stay sharp much longer.