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A bad air leak- or several air leaks can stop a saw from firing up. 032 is getting up there age wise- if on original seals- maybe. Can suck air from anywhere there is a penetration into the cylinder or crankcase though- not just the main seals. You have spark and fuel delivery seemingly sorted...

Oh okay the two major plastic parts- never done that, never seen it done or heard of anyone trying. How did we arrive at this point?

There's lots of plastic bits on a 440- which 2 are we talking about? Photographs are good in instances like this.

Is the Oregon bar the exact same tail mount and location of oil delivery hole as the original Echo bar? Are the oil delivery holes on the bar/bars clean and debris free? Is the groove between the bar rails clean? Are the chain drive links in good condition? I will not lie and pretend to be...

Uncommon saw here, all I can tell you is it will be the same as some of the Poulan saws like the Poulan Pro 335 and 3300 models- but you need to be sure what you are dealing with- chrome bore or chrome plated piston. If you have the original printed manual for it- that should have a parts list...

Run it like it is and you may well set it on fire. From the description- hard to say what is happening- could be perished lines or cracked cases letting the oil out. Loose muffler melted the oil tank top. Where is the fuel/oil mix coming out of? If the muffler- I guess it was flooded to heck...

Photographs are always a good idea, as are complete model numbers for the saw in question. I assume you are talking about a 3000 model, grey and black Craftsman- or similar? Not common here but I believe 2700 to 3300 are all pretty much the same- although some were chrome bore bare piston and...

Went to a garage sale pre sale last week. People leaving a farm to move to town, planned to have a garage sale in town but too much to shift- so offered it to locals first. There were a pile of cheap bulk store small saws I left behind- a Stihl 192 top handle they were (in my opinion) asking too...

Arrived in the mail a few days ago- I never bought it, never ordered it and knew nothing about it- till it arrived. When they were new on the shelf, I did look seriously at one, but settled for the much lesser and much cheaper 2045 at the time, regretted it ever since. This thing is a pocket...

Yes- that measurement below your straight edge should be between .060 and .070. Or if you like metric- around 1.65mm.

Underside of the diaphragm there is a flange with a nipple that engages the metering lever- a plain nipple sits on the metering lever. The nipple with the groove sits in a fork in the metering lever. WT 136 carb should be a flat nipple and lever- if a grooved nipple diaphragm is used and sits...

Okay- ah the 136, or 36, or 41 or even 141- the saws I have grown to hate. :ROFLMAO: You do not "need" the W tool per say- tongue of the lever flush with the gasket less carb body with a straight edge (steel ruler) laying over. The kit you got- underside of the diaphragm- straight nipple of...

Very good penetrating oil, great for old firearms restorations. A little wiped on faded saw plastics helps feed and nourish the plastics back to some of their former glory.

Yes- I do.

Ask for photographic evidence and or the damaged parts to be returned. If a bolt rattled loose or some other metallic foreign body made its way in to the arc the flywheel travels- then yes steel will destroy aluminium and break flywheel fins. Clutch expanded? I am guessing you are meaning weak...

The vent is one way- lets air in to replace fuel used- but does not let air out.

Very little- unless I was there to judge it myself. I mean what can you see that will somehow pump air under pressure in to the fuel tank?

They do leak there commonly- but the horrid wee thinks leak everywhere- crank seals, engine pan, impulse, carb plate to cylinder...... Proper pressure and vacuum test is the only way to be dead sure it is not sucking air from somewhere.

If you have done a carb kit, are sure the internals of the carb are clean, have fuel flow from tank to combustion chamber- then more than likely you have an air leak- close the choke and you decrease the air volume- correct? So if you can only get it to run on choke and you are sure the carb is...

Bubbles in the fuel line can mean the filter is sitting above fuel level, ledged within the tank up high- not sitting on the bottom of the tank. Personally for all they cost- I would be replacing the filter. Pressure blows out- vacuum sucks in. If the breather is not working, a vacuum forms...